Outrun Restoration

In November 2009 I won an Outrun Deluxe Upright machine on eBay!


It was from Dundee. The previous owner said it was working originally, but hasn't been working for a while. The cabinet is in poor condition and needs restoration. I spent 3 hours dismantling it, so the cabinet is stable and movable by two people. I have the Owner's Manual so thought that I could bring it back to life. My house was hit by serious storm damage 3 weeks later. After long delays in 2010 and getting back into the house in April 2011 I am ready to get into restoring this machine.

The first problem was that the baseboard broke off completely when the removal company were collecting it! The cabinet has had water damage at some point, so the baseboard is going in the bin. The front panel has been removed for access and, yes, no Outrun diagonal sticker emblem.

For safety I have removed all of the components except the monitor and put them in a safe, warm, dry room. i.e. pedal assembly, dashboard, screen mask, glass screen protector, bezel, motherboard, wiring loom, power supplies and rotten amp board.

Questions and answers

I have a few questions other people might be able to help me with:
1. The wiring loom is very complicated. There is a 10 pin connecter (4 yellow, 4 white) with one yellow pin disconnected. It is connected next to the grey connector on the bottom motherboard. Should all of the yellow wires be connected? Does anyone have a pinout for this connector?
2. The power supply has 2 fuses disconnected. There are 4 connected wires which should all have 2A fuses according to the rating plate. One of them has a missing fuse (no wonder the machine wasn't working!).
What is the correct configuration for the power supply? There is a secondary transformer also on the power supply board which goes to a 6 pin connector (3 purple, 3 orange). What is that for? What is the correct way to earth the power supply and connect it from the mains?
3. The screen has a lot of burn-in. I would like to replace this with a LCD TV connected via SCART. The circuit diagram shows R, G, B, Sync and Ground. I have a friend who is good with electronics and he should be able to wire up a SCART socket for me. Is it possible to connect Outrun to a TV?
Can I *cut* the wires from the screen to get the wiring loom out of the cabinet and be able to remove the heavy old CRT?
4. There is a 3 pin cable which "fell out of the bottom of the machine" (according to the delivery guy). It has a label on it that says BB. Does anyone know what that is for?
5. Where could I get a set of tamper proof screwdrivers to open the speaker\marquee part of the case?
6. I can't get the accelerator pedal of the old base-board which is now lying out in the rain in my back garden.


1. Note: the red start button. All the uprights I've seen have green circular start buttons.
2. The control panel is at a strange angle. It was held in place by 2 19mm screws at either side. It was not bolted on to the lip by the 3 bolts because 2 of them had worn away.

3. Here is some of the case damage at the front:

That's 3/4" T-Moulding. Nothing else will do.

4. Power supplies

There are 2 power supplies on there. A friendly electrician said that the secondary transformer is probably knackered and that's why its fuse has been removed. I need 4x2A slow blow fuses and an electrician to PAT test it.

Replacement parts required

1. The gear lever is stuck on high. It won't hold in the low gear position. Any ideas on how I could fix it? Got it! NOS replacement.
2. I need a hi-lo plate for the gear lever. Got it! With part 1 above.
3. Ferrari emblem for the steering wheel.
4. Outrun map for the bezel. Got it! NOS replacement.
5. Green start button.
6. About 30 feet (15 feet per side) of 3/4" Black T-Moulding.

The map is so precious it's still in the wrapper. I may use it as a template to make a high quality reproduction.

I am thinking of getting a professional joiner to restore the cabinet. It needs new T-Moulding, about 4 inches repaired at the bottom left and right and a new base preferably with 2 fixed and 2 movable castors. If I can get rid of that old, heavy CRT then castors might be suitable.

Ideally I would like a fully working, light-weight, electrically safe Outrun machine.

I wonder how much weight can be saved by binning the CRT and replacing it with an LCD TV?
It would be a sin to get rid of the CRT in this machine.

The force feedback problem

If the power supply and wiring loom is too complicated to repair or replace then
I'd settle for the cabinet restored and replace it with a PC running Mame and Opti-arc for
the controller, but I take it that MAME cannot do force feedback on crash?
FinalBurnFF has never worked for me with various configurations on a Thrustmaster steering wheel.

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